Shape is not cut
Shape is the outline of a diamond when viewed from above. Cut, by contrast, describes the quality of its proportions and polish. Any shape can be cut well or poorly, so it helps to consider the two separately.
Choosing a shape is largely a matter of personal taste. Each has its own character, and the one you keep returning to is usually the right one.
Brilliant cuts and step cuts
Brilliant cuts use many triangular and kite-shaped facets arranged to maximize sparkle. They produce a lively, glittering effect that tends to hide small inclusions.
Step cuts use long, rectangular facets arranged in rows, like a staircase. They create a quieter, mirror-like flash, often described as hall of mirrors. Because they are so open, they tend to reveal clarity and color more plainly.
The classic shapes, part one
These first five are among the most recognized outlines in fine jewelry.
- Round: the timeless choice, a brilliant cut prized for maximum sparkle
- Princess: a square or near-square brilliant cut with sharp corners and a modern feel
- Cushion: softly rounded corners, like a pillow, with a romantic and vintage air
- Emerald: a rectangular step cut with cropped corners, elegant and understated
- Pear: a teardrop with one point and one rounded end, graceful and distinctive
The classic shapes, part two
The remaining five offer further variety in proportion and personality.
- Oval: an elongated brilliant that can make fingers look longer
- Radiant: a rectangular or square outline with trimmed corners and brilliant faceting, bold and bright
- Asscher: a square step cut with cropped corners and a deep, architectural look
- Marquise: a long, boat-like outline with two points, dramatic and vintage in spirit
- Heart: a romantic symbol in stone, best appreciated in a larger size where the cleft is clear
Practical things to consider
Pointed corners, as on the princess, pear, marquise and heart, are the most exposed parts of a stone, so protective prongs are commonly used there. Elongated shapes such as oval, pear and marquise can sometimes show a darker band across the middle, often called a bow-tie, which varies from stone to stone.
Whenever possible, look at a particular stone in person or in detailed video. Photographs of a shape are a starting point; the individual diamond is what you will actually wear.